Amed and Tulamben: diving the USAT Liberty wreck and east Bali's reefs

On Bali's dry northeast coast, a string of fishing villages — Jemeluk, Bunutan, Lipah, Selang and others, collectively called Amed — offers black-sand beaches, colourful jukung outrigger boats and coral reefs just a few metres from the shore. Ten kilometres north lies Tulamben, home of one of the world's most accessible wreck dives.

The USAT Liberty wreck (Tulamben)

The USAT Liberty was an American cargo ship torpedoed by a Japanese submarine in January 1942 in the Lombok Strait. She was towed toward Bali and beached at Tulamben to save her cargo. In 1963 the eruption of Mount Agung and its earth tremors pushed the hull off the beach into the sea, where it now lies parallel to the shore.

Why divers love it:

• It's a shore dive: walk in from the pebble beach and reach the wreck in a few minutes.
• The wreck lies from about 5 metres to around 30 metres, so snorkellers can see the shallow parts and beginners can dive the upper sections.
• More than 80 years underwater have covered it in soft corals, gorgonians and sponges, with huge schools of jacks, parrotfish, bumphead parrotfish at dawn and plenty of macro life.
• Early-morning and night dives are especially rewarding.

Diving and snorkelling in Amed

• Jemeluk Bay: easy snorkelling over a sloping reef, with underwater statues and a shrine placed by local divers; the viewpoint above the bay is a classic photo stop.
• Japanese wreck (Banyuning): a small wreck in shallow water, great for snorkellers and beginner divers.
• Coral gardens and drop-offs along Lipah and Bunutan, with turtles and reef sharks occasionally.
• Freediving: Amed has become a freediving centre with several schools offering courses in its calm, deep water.

When to go

Diving is possible all year. The dry season (April–November) usually brings the calmest sea and best visibility. Water temperature is generally warm, around 26–29 °C, though cooler upwellings can occur.

Getting there

Amed is about 2.5 to 3 hours by car from Kuta or Sanur. The drive passes beautiful landscapes, so we recommend combining it with east Bali sights: the Lempuyang Gate, Tirta Gangga water palace and the Tenganan traditional village — all included in our Lempuyang & east Bali tour. For a relaxed trip, stay one or two nights in Amed; our custom private tour can drop you there and pick you up later.

Life on the coast

Besides fishing, some Amed families still make traditional sea salt by spreading seawater over black sand and drying it in hollow palm trunks. Ask locally — it's a fascinating, disappearing craft and makes a good souvenir.

Responsible diving

• Choose dive centres with certified instructors and well-maintained equipment.
• Don't touch, stand on or collect coral; keep fins off the reef.
• Use reef-safe sunscreen and bring a refillable bottle.
• Respect fishermen's boats and nets on the beach.

Prefer big marine life? Swim with manta rays at Nusa Penida on our manta snorkelling trip.